This is the final entry of the Thunder Turtle Chronicles:
We had a week of sad-so-longs: We had ourselves a long-time-love affair with Lady LA - we made a few friends, and I delivered and raised my daughter there. Her and I had a tender good bye - it's very hard to leave her... But we're moving forward toward Austin with the wind at our backs toward a new adventure waiting to unfold...
Heading into Austin
Driving by downtown Austin
Driving up to our new home in Austin
This has been one of the most amazing adventures of my life; I am profoundly grateful for this opportunity, and I forever changed by it.
Note from the Commander:--> Snowpea turned in her final copies of her thesis for binding today. Congratulations!
Spent the entire day with Phaedra - went to Venice Beach and had lunch at Firehouse Cafe. Phae had Buffalo Burger. We walked to the beach and immediately saw Harry Perry - my god, he's an icon who probably has not missed a day in his white turban and roller skates and frizzed out guitar - he was here when I arrived in CA back in '86, and today as I'm leaving, here he is again - profound or coincidence?
It was a picture-perfect day here - many local artisans and funky Venice Beach characters making this beautiful place their workplace and even their home. Phae was so pleasant, so pleased to be here! She talked to many people and got herself some new sunglasses and a new handbag - later we went to Ventura Blvd. for some Cold Stone ice cream - Wow, what a nice day!
Today stepped onto the final rung in obtaining my master's degree: I delivered my thesis defense with strength and grace. My committee was very impressed with my work and encouraged me to publish my findings.
Woke up in a scorching morning outside Darwin. Made coffee and split. Took a long, tedious drive into the Sequoia National Monument where we saw only park rangers for 3-hours. I began to think we were the only visitors in the park! so odd...
WE ARE DRIVING IN Purgatory AND THE ROAD JUST WILL NOT END
Note from the Commander:--> the road through south Sequoia Natl Monument today - drove through Johnsondale with a population sign strongly declaring its 1 1/2 population. We also saw a sign announcing 100 grand Sequoias in 10 miles - it was a ruse - we wound a mountainous road of never-ending hairpin turns averaging 20 mph, but we never saw even 1 Sequoia tree. Several hours later we finally made it to California Hot Springs and took a much needed hour and a half soak, but we had no phone, no wireless at the RV park, so we decided to move along.
We zig-zagged another 3 hours toward Kernville covering some 50 miles of twisting, turning madness - feeling like sailing the oceans looking for port. The day has been devoid of civilization. We saw a fox cross the road, first time I'd seen one so close. Finally made our way to Woffard Heights, pop. 2112, starving and hoping to find a comfortable spot to eat, but nothing doing, drove down to the next town, Lake Isabella, pop almost 5000, found an open pizza place and relaxed to an enjoyable dinner around 9pm. after, we headed out to scout out a boon-docking spot, the lake visitor's center was gated shut, so we made our way towards the Von's shopping center parking lot. As we drove around back, the Turtle hit a bump and the kitchen cabinet flung open, and the only glass bowl we were still brave enough to stow shattered into a million peices agh! We cleaned up and am grateful that this day of the most arduous drive and crashing smashing glass has mercifully drawn to a close!
We did not hike to Mt. Whitney (that requires backpacking), but we did hike to Lone Pine Lake. Wow, what a gorgeous hike! It was all up hill, but the switchbacks were quite civilized.
This is not Mt. Whitney, but it is a peak on the trail
We met a zillion back-packers. One middle-aged woman had hiked all the way from Yosemite by herself! It's thrilling and inspiring to know what is possible! On the way to the lake, we saw a helicopter lifting an injured hiker off the trail.
Lifting injured hiker off the trail
Again, it's invigorating to realize what is possible.... We walked around this gorgeous lake:
Pine Lake on Mt. Whitney Trail
We met this guy that was good friends with the drummer from Jethro Tull. He and the Commander talked music. Apparently this guy manages a Jethro Tull tribute band called ____ (I forgot... sorry).
I did a quick yoga by the lake - one of my favorite things on this trip was doing yoga, and doing yoga in beautiful places is such a bonus-track! On the way back down the trail, we met some hikers (Sandra and Lamar) from Austin and started chatting it up. We exchanged contact info, then limped back to camp after our 7-mile up-and-down saunter - my knees were killing me!
We decided to try and hit Death Valley for the Sunset, so off to Panamint Springs.
Death Valley National Park
Wow, Death Valley is so different than I imagined! First of all, it's huge! We entered in from an entrance far away from the "hot spot", the spot most often associated with this grand park. We entered via the 190 - really far from the Borax Fields and the below sea level area. The Thunder Turtle climbed and descended, climbed and descended - so interesting, so very little life, but the land is so rich in a plethora of minerals. We thought about finding an RV park, so we climbed the next 4000 ft, got to the top, and saw yet another expanse of... nothing. so we turned around - it was too much, too hot, and too hard on the Turtle.
View in Death Valley
Saw the sunset, and ended up at the only restaurant around for a fantastic fry-fest. ..connected with our waitress Rose Marie. There were 100s of Death Valley pictures on the walls, including several of Seldom Seen Slim - a Death Valley character from the days of the gold rush - the Commander has an affinity for this character, in fact, he owns a book about him.
Got up at our usual 9AM - did prayers and yoga, then had some breakfast before heading out for an intended-20 minute soak.
View from Crowley Hot Springs
The hot water, the beating noon sun, and the lung infection from inhaling too much playa dust waylaid our journey. By the time I got back to the van, I was too tired to do anything but crash for the rest of the afternoon.
We made it to Whitney Portal Campground around dusk. Mt. Whitney is the tallest spot in the lower 48 states. We processed some pictures and called it a day.
Well, now that the Man has burned and our experience shifts into its closing chapters, we thought we'd spend the day chasing hot springs. ... Feelin' positive and energized. This area (Owen's River/Sierra Nevada) is stunning! Had some coffee outside and enjoyed the view. Did yoga and meditation and headed to Pulky's Pool where we enjoyed a private soak in a super-clean natural pool smack in the middle of this desert-bog - so interesting and so beautiful! We forgot the camera so no pics and no camping was allowed so we moved along.
Ended up at Crowley's Hot Springs also known as "Wild Willy's".
Denizens of Crowley Hot Springs
On the dirt road to the springs we met some Burners making their way to LA - a young trio of a French man, an Italian woman, and an American. We gave them directions to the springs and @ the parking lot, the American came over and asked us for some food. We gave the some stuff.
After prayers, we went for our second soak of the day and one of the most socially harmonious hot spring interaction yet! Met a hiker from Transylvania living in Simi Valley. There was a couple in the area for a festival; they are members of a self-sustaining community, so we talked a great deal about sustainability and other social issues. Our new Burning Man friends came by - it was very open and social. It's so interesting meeting and socializing in a natural hot springs in the middle of a bovine pasture - we walked back after dark in a symphony of "moo".
the Turtle is Spic and Span! There's nothing like the mess created by a week at Black Rock City, and there's nothing more satisfying than cleaning it out.... wow, what a difference a day makes!
Note from the Commander:--> got up at 6:30 to have coffee with J & J before their exodus and began considering getting out of the desert ourselves before the rush - we began packing up as we all embraced and expressed our goodbyes. We left @ 7:45 AM and it took us around 1/2 hour to get out - very smooth! got gas in Garlach and stopped to get our Turtle washed on the Indian Reservation. Drove to Fernley and decided to push on to the Eastern Sierra in CA. It was very beautiful in June Lake, but we didn't see an RV park, so we went on to Mammoth where I had a lengthy conversation via cellphone with Steve C. Caught up and processed our life experiences.
Found an RV park on the Owen River, we paid but found there's no electricity so we drove towards Bishop. Lost about 3,000 ft and gained about 15 degrees - got into Brown's Millpond RV park and collapsed into movie time. Watched " Quinceanera" - a touching tale of a young Latina & her family in Echo Park.
Tomorrow is CLEANING DAY!
Note from Snowpea: Leaving into a transition time: closing chapters of the Thunder Turtle Chronicles, opening chapters of life in Austin, TX.
Goals: Open-Heart Open-Self Self-Less Self-Less-Ness Service
Highlights of Burning Man 2007: Monday -> Lunar Eclipse Tuesday -> Full Moon Wednesday -> Meteor Showers Friday-> Double Arch Rainbow over Black Rock City
... up early for coffee and conversation with camp-mates J & J. Got the Road Toad folded up and tucked away - Joanna aka Super Girl had to cut the cables to get the top down - we worked as a team to complete the job, but with Super Girl at the helm, we were bound to succeed. I applied third-eye markers on my camp mates:
Cumcumnumnum and the Commander a la third-eye markers
We took a ride to Entheon Temple where Jeff met and affiliate from Pachamama. We hung out to hear a lecture on Global Eco Villages, but it didn't happen. After hangin' around for awhile, we headed back to center camp for iced coffee and some people watching:
Cumcumnumnum and la Goddessa
We had a date at Hushville for cocktail hour, so we got back to the Turtle around 4:20. We changed into our evening attire, and I had some cookies - good for the yummy for the tummy and for the head. Barb and Brian stopped by as we were heading out - we visited for a bit and watched the sunset, then headed toward the Playa. B & B dropped us at Hushville. Lynn wasn't there so we headed over to Census.
the Commander popped open the Patron and the party started! The Countess invited us to ride on the Census-mobile, and we headed out to find a spot for the evening's festivities. All of Black Rock City converged around the Man -
The Man
everyone was decked out:
and in the spirit of the main event:
It's sooo interesting out here, so surreal - words and pictures cannot adequately capture this experience....
Jeff pointed out the waste in all the disposable glow sticks (manufactured in China) - it felt decadent, self-indulgent and got me questioning my own selfish indulgence.
We did lots of standing around. the Commander took many pictures, and finally the fire twirlers came on the scene. the Commander and I crawled onto the top of the Census-mobile for the pent-house view of the event - what a spectacular spectacle:
BURNING THE MAN 2007
We've got a bunch more Burning Man photos: More Pictures